Fleas found on cats and dogs lay about 20 eggs per day and as many as 10,000 eggscan fall off an infested cat in 24 hours!
To survive the cold of winter months, many insects replace the water in their body with a chemical called glycerol, which acts like an anti-freeze.
Rodents cause more then $1 billion dollars in damage annually in the U.S. alone. Mice may make 20 to 30 visits to different food sites each night, taking as little as 0.15 gram of food at each site!
Almost all pest and rodent infestations begin outside buildings. Pests enter through holes and cracks in the home’s exterior. How a home is constructed can greatly affect which pest problems you experience. Here are some tips for “pest-proofing” your house.
-Reduce shelters such as piles of bricks or lumber and leaf litter.
-Keep ground cover at least 18″ from the home’s foundation.
-Trim trees and shrubs so they do not touch the home.
-Use yellow “bug lights” to attract fewer insects.
-Ventilate the spaces under decks and sheds.
-Don’t keep pet food outside on patios or decks.
-Keep pets either in or out. Dogs and cats that run in and out are more likely to carry fleas into the house.
-Keep gutters unclogged and repair any areas that get poor drainage.
-Ventilate the attic and basement crawlspace to minimize excess moisture and humidity.
Ready for that next vacation or business trip and are concerned about all the news lately about the rapid growth of bed bug activity in hotels and other buildings across the country? Knowing your enemy can lower the risk or even prevent bedbugs from attacking you or hitching a ride home with you.
Bed bugs are generally active at night, with a peak activity period about an hour before dawn. Attracted by warmth and carbon dioxide, the bug pierces the skin of its host with two hollow tubes. With one tube it injects its saliva, while with the other it withdraws the blood of its host. After feeding for about five minutes, the bug returns to its hiding place. The bites cannot usually be felt until minutes or hours later. Bedbugs can live for up to 18 months without feeding.
Leave your luggage by the door when you arrive. Luggage is one of the known ways that bed bugs are moved from place to place. So try to avoid picking up any hitchhikers. Another option is to put your luggage in the bathtub. Inspect the luggage rack if there is one before setting your luggage on it. Inspect the room. Pay special attention to the bed, bed frame, and any headboard. These are the prime spots you’ll see signs of an infestation. Bed bugs hang out near their food source which usually is found by the bed.
Take things apart. Start by pulling the bed away from the wall, if possible. A flashlight is handy for shining behind headboards and under beds. Strip the bed, right down to the mattress and bed springs. You have to see what’s underneath the clean sheets and mattress pad to know what’s been there. Lift the mattress and box springs up and look underneath. If it’s a platform bed, inspect carefully under the springs and around the base. Pay special attention to the seams of mattresses and the box springs. These are spots the bugs like to hide in. Bed stands near the bed are another place to look, as well as any couches, drawers, furniture, and other items that are near the bed. Bed bugs can live in any tiny crack and crevices.
After feeding, bedbugs leave brown stains of your clotted blood. You typically won’t see the bugs–they are fairly tiny and can move quickly. There are some great bed bug monitors on the market to set out under the bed to detect the insects quickly. Call us if you would like more information or would like to purchase
As your vehicle sits peacefully in your garage this winter you may not realize that it is a prime target for over wintering rodents. This becomes a nightmare when you go to start your car and it will not turn over. Then you lift the hood and the gathering of dark brown pellet-sized droppings around the well-chewed wiring harness leaves you the victim of a rodent that was looking to find shelter and food sources for the cold season. One rodent is capable of leaving your vehicle immobile. Repairs will be costly along with the sudden lack of transportation while it gets fixed. I’ve seen damages to vehicles costing upwards of $2000! Don’t fall to the myth that where you live will reduce the chances of this happening. Vehicle damage from rodents can happen in urban areas as well as rural areas. Signs that they are under the hood are nests, food storage caches, and their droppings. They will chew wiring and hoses looking for water and tear at the insulation, interior, and seats in their quest for nesting materials and food.
The question to ask is, “What can be done to minimize the potential for rodent infestations and prevent the damages caused by rodents?” First, take a proactive approach starting with the understanding that rodents operate on instinct. Those instincts seem to be focused on the need to find food and shelter. A parked vehicle can provide both. Secondly, one must understand that an ideal rodent habitat is one that provides consistent shelter from natural enemies as well as weather extremes. Although frequently driven vehicles don’t really match this description, if they are parked near such a habitat they can be damaged as the rodent may be attracted to the warmth of a recently driven vehicle and the possible contents inside the vehicle.
Keep food sources away
First, make sure there are no food sources inside your vehicle. A rodent has a very keen sense of smell, and follows it’s nose with persistence until the meal is found. No vehicle is designed to be airtight. Eliminating any and all sources of scents is what will go the farthest toward keeping them out of your vehicle. That means anything that is considered food for humans or animals and is not in an unopened can or bottle. Typical fast food remnants are the obvious source, from stray fries, burger bits, and drink spillage on carpet and upholstery, to unopened condiment packages—especially sauces. Common places under seats and around floor-mounted components are the worst. It helps to have your vehicle cleaned inside and out with some regularity.
Park in a habitat resistant space
Ivy beds, poorly organized storage sheds and garages with clutter, long-standing piles of building materials, abandoned large appliances, and poorly maintained garbage areas all make for excellent rodent habitats. The most practical way to deal with this problem is to just remove the habitat. Have old appliances hauled away, properly stack building materials or wood piles, trim ivy and overgrown shrubs to minimize harborages. Organize your garage to keep clutter from accumulating. Keep garbage in proper containers with fitting lids and dispose of the trash regularly. It’s probably not going to be the cheapest way but it is the most effective proactive method of minimizing rodent populations. And if none of the problem areas are actually on your property, it will be a more difficult task to achieve. Traps and bait can be used as the next step of abatement or as the alternative if the area is difficult to clean up. Baiting in particular should be applied by a professional to minimize dangers to children and non target animals.
It is said that by knowing your enemy, you can go a hundred battles victorious without harm. Taking that sentiment to heart, we make sure we are thoroughly knowledgeable about the pests that reside in the Greater Puget Sound area. Thus, we are able to offer very effective pest control solutions to our customers.
To the left you will find various kinds of pests that we treat. Each entry helps you identify threatening pests and understand their habits.
During various seasons, pests are continuously invading your home. They are attracted to your home for different reasons, such as for food or water, or in search of a more comfortable climate. Keeping them out is a continuous process and not a one-time event.
For example, pests like bedbugs are a constant threat. Bedbugs are parasitic insects of the cimicidae family that feed exclusively on blood. They may invade during any season, and can quickly reproduce becoming that much harder to treat.
Since 2007 Quality 1st Pest Solutions has been providing the highest quality pest control in the Washington State Puget Sound area.
We are ready to provide you with year-round services against all kind of pests. We work to deliver customized solutions to help treat your home or place of business. We assess by inspecting your home. We implement a highly customized plan for your specific pest control needs. And finally we monitor throughout the year.
For more information on how to get rid of your pest problem, call us today at: 253.226.2206
Carpenter Ants are the largest ants around your home. These ants are the most common and destructive wood destroying insects in the Pacific Northwest. Carpenter ants are a threat because they make nests in and around buildings. They do not eat or consume wood like termites do, however, they make galleries in the wood to live and raise their young. Colonies can reach the size of 40,000 to 50,000 ants. Ant activity is typically greatest between dusk and dawn. As a carpenter ant parent colony grows larger, it expands out from the main nest creating a new colony is known as a satellite colony, and is usually a close distance. The parent colony will contain the queen, larvae and workers. The satellite colony contains the mature larvae, pupae, workers, and winged reproductives. The ants will move back and forth from the parent nest to the satellite nest and to feeding areas. They will forage in and around the home for food and water, and often choose to establish satellite colonies inside a structure since these items are readily available there. Most damage by carpenter ants in the Pacific Northwest are caused by two species: Camponotus modoc or Camponotus vicinus. These species commonly nest in standing trees, logs, stumps, etc.
Odorous House Ants are small, dark brown ants approximately 1/8 inch long. They are often referred to as “sugar ants” due to their fondness for sweet foods. Empty soda cans, syrups, and any other type of sweet food debris are all attractants to this ant. Odorous house ants foraging in and around the home for food or water will often choose to establish colonies inside the structure since these items are easily available there. They are often seen in the kitchen and bathroom beginning in late March to early April. Inside the home they are generally found in wall voids, especially in and around hot water heaters and hot water pipes. Odorous House Ants do not cause structural damage, mostly they can be an annoyance. Odorous house ants are found outdoors nesting under rocks, old logs, under mulch, and landscape timbers, although just about anything on the ground can be a nesting site for these ants.
There are about twelve different species of yellow jackets & hornets in the Pacific Northwest.
Hornets are a type of aerial nesting yellow jacket. Its nest visibly hangs in the air on a bush, tree, under the eave of your house, or some place similar. Their colors may vary. Hornets are black and yellow. The bald-faced hornet is black & white.
Both yellow jacket & hornet nests are similar in structure, it’s a paper nest made of wood fibers. Unlike the paper wasp nest, a yellow jacket nest has a paper coating that is gray or brown in color. It resembles a paper machete ball with an entrance hole towards the bottom.
When yellow jacket queens first start their nest in the spring the nests are quite small, like a golf ball. Towards fall their nests can be very large. We’ve been in attics where the outer paper coating of the nest was five feet in diameter. However, most nests get to be just a bit bigger than a basketball with a few thousand yellow jackets in them. At the end of their cycle the queen will raise other queens for next year. Those queens leave the nest to find a place to hibernate for the winter, while the original nest dies out, never to be used again.
Yellow jackets are very aggressive and can be dangerous and cause considerable damage to your home. If you find them going in & out of a hole in your house you should have it treated immediately. They have a mandible like a carpenter ant & can chew through your wall quite easily. In most cases they’ll take a couple of weeks to do so, but if you spray their outside hole with a can of spray or caulk it, & they get desperate for another way out, they can come through much sooner.
In the Northwest there are several species of paper wasps & mud wasps, or mud daubers. Most are black & yellow, but some mud wasps are black with a metallic blue tint to them. These wasps are very beneficial insects. They are not aggressive and won’t do any damage to your home. They do have a stinger that they use to paralyze insects to eat, but they don’t use their stinger to attack people. However, while wasps will not defend their nest they will defend themselves. You can be stung if you swat at one or step on it barefoot.
Paper wasps make small nests out of wood fibers & are commonly found under the eaves or in the attic of houses & buildings. Their nests are open & the honeycomb shaped cells are exposed. Usually wasp nests are quite small (the size of a dime to hand size). Paper wasps start their nests in the spring. A queen starts each nest & then raises workers. A huge nest of paper wasps might get to be seventy-five in numbers, but most nests may have only twenty to forty wasps on them. At the end of their cycle the queen raises other queens for next year. Those queens leave the nest to find a place to hibernate for the winter while the original nest dies. The nesting cycle then starts again next spring with the new queens. Paper wasps can reuse old nests from a previous year, so any visible nests under your eaves should be knocked down.
Mud wasps are very similar to paper wasps except that they build their nests out of mud. Mud wasps will make a nest resembling a dirt clod, lay eggs in it, leave food for the larva, & then seal the cells. Those eggs will hatch out the next spring.
They will however, feed on other warm-blooded animals, including birds, rodents, and pets.
Bed bugs have been documented as pests since the 17th century. They were introduced into the American continent by the early colonists. Bed bugs were common in the United States prior to World War II, after which the widespread use of synthetic insecticides such as DDT greatly reduced their numbers. Improvements in household and personal cleanliness as well as increased regulation of the used furniture market also likely contributed to their reduced pest status.
In the past decade, bed bugs have begun making a comeback across the United States. The widespread use of baits rather than insecticide sprays for ant and cockroach control is a factor in their resurgence. Bed bugs are blood feeders that do not feed on ant and cockroach baits. International travel and commerce are contributing to the spread of these insects, because the eggs, young, and adult bed bugs are easily transported in luggage, clothing, bedding, and furniture. Bed bugs can infest airplanes, ships, trains, and buses. Bed bugs are most frequently found in dwellings with a high rate of occupant turnover, such as hotels and motels, dormitories, shelters, apartment complexes, and prisons. Bed Bug infestations usually are not a reflection of poor hygiene or bad housekeeping.
Adult bed bugs are brown to reddish-brown, oval-shaped, flattened, and about 3/16 to 1/5 inch long. Their flat shape enables them to readily hide in cracks and crevices. The body becomes more elongate, swollen, and dark red after a blood meal. Bed bugs have a beaklike piercing-sucking mouthpart system. The adults have small, stubby, nonfunctional wing pads. Newly hatched nymphs are nearly colorless, becoming brownish as they mature. Nymphs have the general appearance of adults. Eggs are white and about 1/32 inch long. Female bed bugs lay from one to twelve eggs per day, and the eggs are deposited on rough surfaces or in crack and crevices. The eggs are coated with a sticky substance so they adhere to the substrate. Eggs hatch in 6 to 17 days, and nymphs can immediately begin to feed. They require a blood meal in order to molt. Bed bugs reach maturity after five molts. Developmental time (egg to adult) is affected by temperature and takes about 21 days at 86° F to 120 days at 65° F. Bed bugs can go without feeding for 80 to 140 days; older stages can survive longer without feeding than younger ones. Adults have survived without food for as long as 550 days. A bed bug can take six times its weight in blood and feeding can take 3 to 10 minutes. Adults live about 10-14 months and there can be 3 to 4 generations of bed bugs per year.
Bed bugs are fast moving insects that are nocturnal blood-feeders. They feed mostly at night when their host is asleep. After using their sharp beak to pierce the skin of a host, they inject a salivary fluid containing an anticoagulant that helps them obtain blood.
Nymphs may become engorged with blood within three minutes, whereas a full-grown bed bug usually feeds for ten to fifteen minutes. They become elongated after a blood meal. They then crawl away to a hiding place to digest the meal. The sole source of food is the blood meal they take at night from humans or bats during the day. When hungry, bed bugs again search for a host.
Bed bugs hide during the day in dark, protected sites. They seem to prefer fabric, wood, and paper surfaces. They usually occur in fairly close proximity to the host, although they can travel far distances. Bed bugs initially can be found about tufts, seams, and folds of mattresses, later spreading to crevices in the bedstead. In heavier infestations, they also may occupy hiding places farther from the bed. They may hide in window or door frames, electrical boxes, floor cracks, baseboards, furniture, and under the tack board of wall-to-wall carpeting. Bed bugs often crawl upward to hide in pictures, wall hangings, drapery pleats, loosened wallpaper, cracks in plaster, and ceiling moldings. The bite of a bed bug is painless. The salivary fluid injected by bed bugs typically causes the skin to become irritated and inflamed, although individuals can differ in their sensitivity. A small, hard, swollen, white welt may develop at the site of each bite. This is accompanied by severe itching that lasts for several hours to days. Scratching may cause the welts to become infected. The amount of blood loss due to bed bug feeding typically does not adversely affect the host. Rows of three or so welts on exposed skin are characteristic signs of bed bugs. Welts do not have a red spot in the center such as is characteristic of flea bites. Bedbugs bite the host most commonly around the waist while in bed sleeping. However, bites may occur on exposed skin such as arms and legs. Some individuals respond to bed bug infestations with anxiety, stress, and insomnia. Bed bugs are not known to transmit disease, but its affect on people is substantial and debilitating.
A bed bug infestation can be recognized by blood stains from crushed bugs or by rusty (sometimes dark) spots of excrement on sheets and mattresses, bed clothes, and walls. Fecal spots, eggshells, and shed skins may be found in the vicinity of their hiding places. An offensive, sweet, musty odor from their scent glands may be detected when bed bug infestations are severe.
Control of bed bugs is best achieved by following an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that involves multiple tactics, such as preventive measures, sanitation, and chemicals applied to targeted sites. Once the bedbugs have spread, infestations usually are best handled by a Quality 1st pest solutions professional.
Do not bring infested items into one’s home. It is important to carefully inspect clothing and baggage of travelers, being on the lookout for bed bugs and their tell-tale fecal spots. Also, inspect secondhand beds, bedding, and furniture. Rodents that can serve as alternate hosts for bed bugs.
A thorough inspection of the premises to locate bed bugs and their harborage sites is necessary so that cleaning efforts and insecticide treatments can be focused. Inspection efforts should concentrate on the mattress, box springs, and bed frame, as well as crack and crevices that the bed bugs may hide in during the day or when digesting a blood meal. The latter sites include window and door frames, floor cracks, carpet tack boards, baseboards, electrical boxes, furniture, pictures, wall hangings, drapery pleats, loosened wallpaper, cracks in plaster, and ceiling moldings. Determine whether birds or rodents are nesting on or near the house. In hotels, apartments, and other multiple-type dwellings, it is advisable to also inspect adjoining units since bed bugs can travel long distances.
Discarding the mattress is another option, although a new mattress can quickly become infested if bed bugs are still on the premises. Steam cleaning of mattresses generally is not recommended because it is difficult to get rid of excess moisture, which can lead to problems with mold, mildew, house dust mites, etc. In dealing with an infested sofa, love seat or upholstered chair, disposal may be necessary since it is difficult to get treatment into the deepest crevices of the furniture where the wood frame may provide harborage for bedbugs.
In cases where the population of bedbugs is high, treatment of adjacent rooms may be necessary. Closets in bedrooms may require treatment and the contents will need to be washed and dried as needed.
Diptera Types: Cat, Dog, Northern Rat, Oriental, Rat, Rabbit
Fleas are small (2mm) wingless insects, with hard bodies flattened side to side, red-brown with backwardly directed spines and powerful legs designed for jumping enabling them to find new hosts as well as to escape quickly the attempts of the hosts to remove them. The adults can survive away from a host for several weeks without eating. All adult fleas are parasitic on warm-blooded animals and birds. Flea eggs are usually laid in dirt or in the nest of the host. Larval stages live in the nest of the host and feed on skin, feathers and, most importantly, the blood-rich feces of the adult flea. When fully grown the larvae spin well camouflaged silken cocoons. When fully developed the adult waits within until it detects the vibrations caused by a potential host. Only then does it emerge. The complete life cycle takes about an month in the summer. Adult fleas feed on blood using piercing and sucking mouth parts. Their bites can cause intense irritation around the central bright red spot. Different people react differently to a bite, both in terms of degree of reaction and time taken to react. Fleas are classified in the phylum Arthropoda , class Insecta, order Siphonaptera. The Cat Flea is by far the commonest species of flea and readily bites humans. The Human Flea and the Bird Flea are next in importance. Dog fleas are rare, although other species may become temporarily attached to dogs.
No matter how hard you may try to avoid them, fleas are part of owning a dog or cat. You can, however, take precautions to protect your pet by knowing when flea season begins for your area. In the Pacific Northwest, we experience year round activity for fleas. Remember: fleas can survive indoors during colder months, so it’s important for you to consult your veterinarian about treatment for your pet. Quality 1st Pest Solutions can provide year round protection in and around your home to help protect your pet from the aggravation of fleas using different both natural and chemical methods. The flea has a lifespan of six to 12 months. During that time, a pair of fleas could produce millions of offspring. Fleas have survived millions of years in a variety of environments. Some species can leap 15 to 36 inches high.
Fleas can cause reactions in your pet varying from a mild skin irritation to a severe allergic reaction. Because fleas feed on blood, an extreme infestation can cause anemia or even death in animals. All cats and dogs, and other mammals, too, are susceptible to flea infestations, except for some that live in high elevations or in extremely dry environments.
Whether or not you actually see fleas on your pet, they may be there. Scratching, scabs and dark specs, or “flea dirt,” found on the skin can all be signs that your pet has become the unwitting host for a family of fleas. Fleas can carry tapeworms, too. In extreme cases, an animal may be lethargic and its lips and gums pale. All cats and dogs are susceptible to flea infestations, except for some that live in high elevations or in extremely dry environments. You can help your pet win the war on fleas by knowing your flea season, which is largely influenced by temperature and humidity. In March we begin to see a increase in activity, rapidly growing thru the summer peaking in July-August. Then it gradually declines back to lower levels by November to December.
To battle flea infestation requires patience and perseverance. Because the life cycle of a flea is three to four weeks, it will take at least that long to completely rid your pet and its environment of the enemy. Different flea control products work in different ways, have varying levels of effectiveness and kill different flea stages (eggs, larvae and/or adults). We need to use a combination of products at the same time to be effective.
Dips, shampoos, powders and sprays will usually kill the adult fleas on your pet. Using a flea comb regularly will help, too. But more adults may be lurking in your home or yard, and eggs or larvae may be lying in wait, as well. You’ll need to rid your house of fleas by vacuuming and washing your pet’s bedding once a week, and using a disinfectant on washable surfaces and an insecticide or insect growth regulator in cracks and crevices (sometimes foggers are recommended) every two to four weeks. When using chemical products to control fleas, be very careful. You may be providing too much of a potentially toxic chemical if you use, say, a flea dip and a fogger with the same chemical ingredient. Always check with your veterinarian before beginning your war on fleas for your pet. Even if you purchase an over-the-counter product, it’s wise to consult your veterinarian for any safety concerns. To assist you with clearing your home of fleas, our methods at Quality 1st Pest Solutions treating your yard, carpets, pet areas, and other necessary areas can provide year round protection for your pet. Sunlight kills fleas, so concentrating efforts in the shady areas of your yard especially can help with the process of eliminating fleas. We can spray your yard with insecticide, we also treat your yard using fleas natural enemy, nematodes. Nematodes are microscopic worms that kill flea larvae and cocoons. We apply them to your yard once a month until the fleas are gone.
Be very careful to use the products as directed; some may be effective for dogs, but toxic to cats. Always consult with your veterinarian before implementing any flea control program that involves treating your pet directly.
Types: House Mice, Norway Rat, Roof Rat
Name applied to numerous species of small rodents , often having soft gray or brown fur, long hairless tails, and large ears. The chief distinction between these animals and the variety of rodents called rats is in size: mice are usually smaller. Many small rodents are adapted for leaping or hopping and are named accordingly, e.g., the North American kangaroo rat and Asian jumping mouse.
Name applied to various stout-bodied rodents , usually having a pointed muzzle, long slender tail, and dexterous forepaws. It refers particularly to the two species of house rat, Rattus norvegicus, the brown, or Norway, rat and R. rattus, the black or roof rat. Both species originated in Asia, but have spread throughout the world, mostly on board cargo ships. The black rat was common in Europe in the Middle Ages and was responsible for the spreading of plague. It has since been largely displaced in cooler regions by the brown rat, which reached Europe early in the 18th century, and North America by 1775. The brown rat is the larger of the two, growing up to 10 inches long excluding it’s tail and sometimes weighing more than a pound. It is commonly brown with white underparts and pink ears, feet, and tail. It is a poor climber, but an excellent burrower and swimmer; it is found in the damp basements and sewers of most temperate zone cities. The laboratory white rat is an albino brown rat. The black rat is commonly dark gray. It reaches a maximum length of 8 inches and has a longer tail and larger ears than the brown rat. A good climber, the black rat inhabits attics and upper floors in warm areas; it is the common rat of the Mediterranean region, the SE United States, and Central and South America. Rats are omnivorous, aggressive, intelligent, adaptable, and extremely fecund. Females produce as many as 8 litters each year with as many as 20 young per litter. The gestation period is three weeks, and the young reach sexual maturity in about two months. Rats may live as long as four years. They are social animals but sometimes fight among themselves. They live mostly in and around human settlements, where they have few natural enemies and an abundant source of food. They invade food supplies and cause widespread destruction; they also spread human diseases such as typhus and tularemia. Despite human efforts to exterminate rats, the house rat population is probably equal to the human population. Besides the house rats, the genus Rattus contains several hundred wild-living species. In addition, many other members of several different rodent families are called rats, e.g., the bandicoot rat , the wood rat, or pack rat , the rice rat, the muskrat , and the kangaroo rat.
Rodents cause more then $1 billion dollars in damage annually in the U.S. alone.
Rats can jump 2 feet vertically.
Rats can jump 4 feet horizontally.
Rats can fall 50 feet without injury.
Norway Rats can swim up to 1/2 mile in open water, dive through plumbing traps and travel in sewer lines.
Rats are transmitters of Mume Typhus fever, rat bite fever leptospiressis, trichinosis, salmonellas, melioidosi, brucellosis, tuberculosis, pastuerellosis, reckettsial and viral diseases. Norway Rats can also carry the rabies virus.
Quality 1st Pest Solution’s philosophy regarding rodent control is to eliminate all reasonable entry and exit points within a structure. Prior to the initial inspection, we communicate with our clients regarding their needs and concerns. We proceed to determine the type of pest(s) present and the level of infestation. A thorough inspection is performed to locate entry points. Upon completion, Quality 1st Pest Solutions will present a customized plan addressing the repair and trapping needs to exclude your home. **All Exclusion Repair Work is Guaranteed for 1 Year**
·Crawl Space: vents; pipe penetrations; doors; miscellaneous holes found in brick, block, stone, and porches
·Attic/Roof: gaps in roofline, valleys, and junctions; sewer and exhaust vents; gables; ridge vents; siding; overhanging tree branches, bushes, and vines
·Exterior Walls and Basement: downspouts; gutters; pipe penetrations; exhaust vents; siding; brick and block voids
·Formed galvanized sheet metal
· Copper Mesh
·¼” Wire Mesh
·Black IPF Foam